Le merlot : de Saint-Émilion à la Békaa, le cépage de la rondeur

Merlot: from Saint-Émilion to the Bekaa, the grape of roundness

In brief
  • Merlot is recognisable by its round, almost black berry.
  • It loves clay-limestone soils and a temperate climate, but it buds early in spring, so frosts can damage it.
  • On the nose, it shows mostly fruit: cherry, plum, fig and violet.
  • Born in Bordeaux, it leads the blend in Saint-Émilion, where it brings fruit and roundness.
  • It is also found in the Bekaa, in Lebanon, where it is blended with cabernet sauvignon.

Contents

  1. Merlot grape characteristics: a dark berry and a generous bunch
  2. Clay, limestone and a cool climate: the terroirs where merlot shines
  3. What does merlot taste like: roundness, silky tannins and dark fruit?
  4. What ripeness and time do to merlot wine
  5. A Bordeaux origin and a parent shared with cabernet franc
  6. Merlot in blends: the roundness that softens the structure
  7. From Saint-Émilion to the Bekaa: two expressions of the same grape
  8. Frequently asked questions

Merlot is one of the most widely planted red grapes in the world. Yet people often drink it without knowing what it brings to the glass, which is a shame.

The problem is that you don't always know what to expect when it appears on a label. This article explains what merlot is, where it comes from and where it is grown.

Merlot grape characteristics: a dark berry and a generous bunch

Merlot is recognisable by its round berry, with dark skin and bluish-purple tints, and by its generous bunch. To taste this grape, simply order Château Marsyas B-Qā Rouge or Domaine Wardy Château Les Cèdres.

Merlot ripens one to one and a half weeks before cabernet sauvignon, so it is picked early in the harvest. Its potential alcohol exceeds 12.5% in good years.

Its acidity is at least 0.5 g/L lower than that of the cabernets, which makes for a round wine. Merlot from the Bekaa is well worth discovering: to find your way around, read our guide to Lebanese grape varieties.

Clay, limestone and a cool climate: the terroirs where merlot shines

Merlot loves the clay-limestone soils of Saint-Émilion. The clay holds water, and the limestone helps the vine access it during dry summers. The gravel soils of Bordeaux also suit it.

On the label, the name of the terroir often tells you more than the grape, and that's a good thing.

On the Saint-Émilion plateau, soil and climate matter a great deal:

  • The deep, cooler silt-clay soils help the wine keep its freshness.
  • With an annual average of 13.9 °C and 788 mm of rain a year, the climate remains temperate.
  • But merlot buds early, so spring frosts can damage its young shoots.

What does merlot taste like: roundness, silky tannins and dark fruit?

Aromas of red and black fruit

On the nose, merlot shows mostly fruit: cherry, plum, fig and violet. In the Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac appellations, it mainly brings ripe red fruit and black fruit.

After a few years in bottle, some merlots develop notes of chocolate or coffee. It's not the rule, but it's a lovely surprise. In a young wine, the fruit comes first.

Supple texture and silky tannins

On the palate, merlot first shows its suppleness. A supple wine drinks without any harsh tannic grip, and a round wine gives an ample, balanced impression.

Merlot-dominated wines are therefore often round and silky.

The reason lies in the tannins, the substances that create a drying sensation. Merlot feels softer than cabernet sauvignon, which seems firmer and more drying.

For a meal where you want a wine that won't dry out your mouth, choose a merlot rather than a cabernet.

What ripeness and time do to merlot wine

Merlot changes register depending on its ripeness. For a red Bordeaux, the grapes must reach at least 189 grams of sugar per litre of must, the juice before fermentation.

Below that, green notes take over from the ripe fruit. A merlot picked too green isn't worth opening: move on to the next bottle.

Ageing and the style of the cuvée change merlot wine in three ways:

  • After a little ageing, notes of chocolate or coffee appear.
  • When young, merlot-dominated wines from Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac can be enjoyed straight away, thanks to their suppleness.
  • Concentrated, powerful cuvées, on the other hand, are made for long ageing.

A Bordeaux origin and a parent shared with cabernet franc

Merlot was born in south-west France, and Bordeaux is its cradle. Its name comes from the blackbird (merle in French): the berries are almost black, and the bird is very fond of them.

As for its family, merlot descends from cabernet franc, its male parent, and from magdeleine noire des Charentes, its female parent. So if you love cabernet franc, you'll find part of its family in merlot.

The easiest way to sense this family link is to drink the two wines one after the other. The exercise quickly becomes fun, and you soon spot what the two grapes have in common.

Merlot in blends: the roundness that softens the structure

Merlot and cabernet sauvignon

In Bordeaux, merlot brings fruit and roundness. Cabernet sauvignon brings structure and tannins, the substances that give wine a drying taste in the mouth.

These tannins are firmer and more drying than merlot's. For a wine meant to age, cabernet provides the backbone. Merlot, for its part, can be enjoyed sooner, which is very handy.

Merlot and cabernet franc in Saint-Émilion

In Saint-Émilion, merlot leads the blend. It brings fruit and roundness from the very first sip.

Cabernet franc brings freshness, liveliness and a structure that helps the wine age. Without it, the wine would quickly feel heavy. For a wine to lay down, it is indispensable.

In Pomerol, merlot accounts for around 80% of the vines. In blends, it leaves more room for the other grapes, as this table shows.

Grape variety Area planted in Pomerol Share in blends (Saint-Émilion, Pomerol, Fronsac)
Merlot around 80% 60 to 80%
Cabernet franc around 15% 20 to 30%
Cabernet sauvignon around 5% less than 10%

From Saint-Émilion to the Bekaa: two expressions of the same grape

Merlot in the Gironde

On the Right Bank, merlot reigns supreme. In Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac, it dominates the vineyards. It is also found in blends across the rest of Bordeaux.

Why such a prominent place? In Saint-Émilion, the clay-limestone soil and temperate climate suit it. The cooler soils also help the wine keep its freshness, which is exactly what overly heavy merlots lack.

Merlot around the world

Merlot doesn't stay in Bordeaux. In Lebanon's Bekaa Valley, it grows alongside cabernet sauvignon in a much hotter, drier climate.

Château Ksara is a good example: its Rouge 2019 blends 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 10% petit verdot. Cabernet leads, and merlot rounds it out.

To place these wines without getting lost, read our guide to Lebanese wines. One grape, two styles: the best approach is to taste them side by side.

Merlot is recognisable by its round berry and ripe fruit. It makes a supple, round wine that can be enjoyed young.

To really get a feel for it, the simplest way is to taste a merlot and a cabernet one after the other. The difference in suppleness is quickly apparent, and that's when you understand what the grape brings.

Frequently asked questions

Is merlot a dry or a sweet wine?

Merlot usually makes dry wines. Its ripe fruit can suggest otherwise, because you perceive a certain softness, but that doesn't make the wine sweet.

Is merlot a good red wine?

Yes, as long as you know what you're buying. Merlot can make a light, fruity red or a concentrated, powerful cuvée, and the style depends on the wine.

For an everyday meal, a light merlot does the job perfectly.

What food goes well with merlot?

Merlot goes well with red meat, poultry and dishes in sauce. Merlot-dominated wines from Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and Fronsac pair with a wide range of dishes. Good news: it's an easy wine to match.

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