Chenin Blanc: from the Loire Valley to South African "Steen"

In the Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc covers 19% of the vineyard area. In South Africa, it is drunk under the name Steen.

Faced with a Steen, many people wonder whether it is a different grape. This article explains what Chenin is, how it tastes, where to buy it in France and whether it really is the same grape.

Loire Chenin Blanc and South African Steen: one and the same grape

Chenin Blanc, a grape born in the Loire Valley, has bright acidity. The easiest way to taste it is to set aside a Lourens Family Wines Skuinskap Steen or a Rijk’s Private Cellar Chenin Blanc.

It covers 19% of the Loire Valley's vineyards. Dry, sweet or sparkling, it changes from one bottle to the next.

In South Africa, Steen is Chenin Blanc: the same grape under another name. A Steen and a Loire Chenin can taste different, so compare the style stated on the label.

To find it in France, our Chenin Blanc selection covers several styles. To start, a dry Vouvray or Montlouis is the safest choice.

From the Loire Valley to South Africa: the story of a well-travelled grape

In the Loire, Chenin is also known as Pineau de la Loire. In Vouvray, the name is still in use.

The grape has been grown in the valley since at least the 9th century, so it is hardly a newcomer. On an old Loire label, Pineau de la Loire does indeed mean Chenin.

Chenin was among the first vines to arrive at the Cape in 1655. To put this vine in context, the South African vineyard is a good reference point.

In 1960, the researcher C. J. Orffer compared Steen leaves with Chenin from the Loire and concluded they were the same grape. Steen is therefore Chenin, and it is the style that matters.

A taste profile between crisp acidity and honeyed notes

Chenin is first recognisable by its bright acidity, which gives the wine a clean freshness on the palate. In dry styles, apple and white flowers dominate.

To compare several dry wines, the simplest approach is to look at dry white wines by region. A Chenin lacking this freshness deserves a closer look, as it loses what makes it recognisable.

With sugar, Chenin changes character considerably, and the terroir also shapes its aromas:

• Medium-sweet and lusciously sweet: candied fruit, honey and white flowers, with an acidity that keeps the wine fresh despite the sweetness.
• Savennières, on schist slopes: quince, pear, honey and acacia.
• Anjou-Coteaux de la Loire, on schist: animal notes.
• Anjou-Coteaux de la Loire, on limestone: mineral notes.

Vouvray, Savennières, Anjou, Saumur: the Chenin appellations

Touraine: Vouvray and Montlouis

Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire are the two Touraine benchmarks for Chenin. Vouvray ranges from dry to sweet, and even sparkling, which covers almost every taste.

Montlouis, Vouvray's neighbour, makes nothing but Chenin: dry, sweet or sparkling wines. For pairings with seafood, the simplest is to read our wine and seafood pairing guide.

Anjou: Savennières, Anjou and Coteaux du Layon

Savennières, Anjou and Coteaux du Layon do not produce the same style of wine. The table compares them line by line.

Saumur: still whites and fine bubbles

Still Saumur is a white without bubbles. Saumur Fines Bulles is a sparkling wine, and its name says so on the label. Chenin features in both.

As an aperitif, Fines Bulles can be enjoyed on its own, with no food needed. At the table, the still version is the simplest choice, especially with fish.

For a first try at bubbles, Fines Bulles is the right starting point.

Medium-sweet or lusciously sweet: residual sugar makes the difference

Residual sugar is the sugar left in the wine after fermentation. The more remains, the sweeter the wine: a medium-sweet wine keeps less of it, a lusciously sweet one far more.

Chenin's acidity balances this sweetness. You will find candied fruit, honey and white flowers. To start, medium-sweet is the easiest style to love.

For a blanquette, Loire whites are well worth a try; for sweet styles:

• Bonnezeaux: medium-sweet or lusciously sweet wines made solely from Chenin, to serve with Roquefort and walnuts.
• Coteaux de l’Aubance: medium-sweet wines with candied fruit and honey.
• Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru: lusciously sweet wines with candied fruit and honey.
• For a dish in sauce, dry Chenin remains a good choice.

South African Steen: the same grape, sometimes different profiles

In South Africa, a wine labelled Steen is made from Chenin Blanc. The name was matched to Chenin by comparing the leaves, by C. J. Orffer in the 1960s.

Chenin covers 18.4% of South Africa's wine grape area, which shows how widespread it is. Steen is therefore not a separate grape: both names refer to a single variety.

A Steen and a Loire Chenin do not always taste the same. What changes is the harvest and the terroir: Chenin can make dry, medium-sweet or lusciously sweet wines.

For a dry Steen, start with wines from the Western Cape. The surest way is still to taste the two side by side.

Finding Chenin Blanc in France and recognising its style

In France, Chenin is found mainly in the Loire. On the label, the grape name or an appellation is enough to identify it: Vouvray, Montlouis-sur-Loire, Savennières, Anjou, Saumur, Coteaux du Layon, Bonnezeaux.

For white meats, turn to well-structured dry wines. A dry Vouvray remains the easiest way to start.

To choose the style, look for these three points on the label:

• The terms "sec", "demi-sec", "moelleux" or "doux" indicate the sugar level.
• The appellation alone is not enough: Vouvray can be dry, off-dry, sweet or sparkling.
• The terms "Crémant de Loire", "Saumur Fines Bulles" or "Montlouis-sur-Loire" signal bubbles.

Chenin Blanc is recognisable by its bright acidity, and it makes dry, medium-sweet, lusciously sweet or sparkling wines. South African Steen is the very same grape.

To choose, read the sugar indication on the label. To start, a dry Vouvray or a Montlouis is the simplest option. Chenin surprises those who think of it as sweet.

Frequently asked questions

What are the most common grapes for Loire white wine?

The main white grapes of the Loire are Chenin Blanc, Melon B. and Sauvignon Blanc. Chenin is the grape of Touraine and Anjou, Melon B. that of Muscadet, and Sauvignon that of Sancerre.

What is the best-known sweet white wine?

Coteaux du Layon is a well-known appellation for sweet whites made from Chenin. Its wines are sweet, but the grape's acidity keeps them fresh. On the label, the appellation name and the word "moelleux" are enough to identify it.

What is the best white wine from the Loire?

There is no single best white wine from the Loire, as the choice depends on the style you are looking for.

Vouvray can be dry, off-dry, sweet or sparkling, and Savennières is mostly dry. The safest approach is to read the sugar indication on the label.

Does Chenin Blanc age well?

Yes, Chenin ages well, and this ageing potential is one of its strengths. Its bright acidity helps it last over time.

The medium-sweet and lusciously sweet whites of the Loire go even further: their ageing potential is considerable.